Friday, February 6, 2015

Reflection towards the South

English translation of the opening pages of the book 'Reflexión hacia el Sur', published in 2004


We are a people strangely endowed by nature. I’ve never liked comments that suggest ethnocentrism

But we have to acknowledge we Chileans have been shaped by a set of determinants that are out of our hands. Geographic features, an elongated coast, a couple of mountain ranges, stretching from the tropics to the pole

We have asked ourselves while writing these prolegomena, the pen hovering over a piece of paper covered with horizontal lines what made the Araucanians resist the conquistadors for so many centuries

As a people we’ve not been denied a double brightness, like the moon reflected in a pool, of military victories, of cultural accomplishments at a universal level

Social upheavals, martyrs, a utopia nearly at hand. Strangled by her own umbilical cord. Abandoned in the wastelands of history

The impression I’ve always had is that of a kind of a seedbed needing lots of water and sun to bear fruit

Under the calm surface of the earth vast movements are gestating

At times the affluent classes believe they’re able to perceive this rumour, part tremor, part snore, which doesn’t let them sleep in peace, that paralyzes fingers holding glasses in the midst of parties and social reunions, looks fixed and vacant

As if an enormous bird, invisible and sinister, had flown overhead, making the entire Barrio Alto of Santiago pass through the perimeter of a tip of a wing

Like that, vast and slow, mute for decades, like healthy children of long gestation who suddenly start to walk

Like that, profound and terrible are not only the social movements but their signs 

Certain displacements of the structures of power, some cultural manifestations

Are no more than the signs of those underground movements

 As if Earth near the South Pole were a woman sleeping and dreaming the profound dream that comes with the heavy digestion of historical events, after the ingestion of a good many currents of blood
 


 
At the coast the sea turns red. Seagulls fly overhead in circles, excited
The molten lava that warms her skin flows through her veins. Her fingers move spasmodically as a reflex and she whimpers in dreams

Which are the vast fabric of sayings, maxims and refrains, the music created and the poetry written in the four corners of Santiago, in the far North, flat and desert-like, in the far South, rugged, cold and scattered over islands

We are a people strangely endowed by nature. We adapt easily to other countries though we never integrate

The adventurous nature, the laconism of the South, the British calm of some people in Valparaiso, the quick speech of the North and their liking for simple, abundant food

The beauty of woman, the slanted olive eyes, the thick mane of hair, the sensuality, the angular face
 
 

Long before the feminist explosion in North America, a flower of ambiguous petals, many ladies in Santiago were separated or had their marriages annulled

Like burlap protecting incipient sunflowers against the onslaught of the sun, the ice and the frost, safeguarding the growth of children later sent out into the world to carry out the diverse tasks of men

Justicia Espada was the first female doctor in Chile. Magaly Honorato, the first woman to be tortured and killed in jail at the beginning of the seventies

Innumerable metis women with enormous eyes and ample bosoms trace their lineage from the Araucanians, from the angular profile of Ines de Suaréz, from the myth of La Quintrala, red–haired and shrouded in fog

Violeta  Parra flies up singing, entangling several other matriarchal figures as she takes flight. The young Gabriela Mistral watches her passing over a stone wall in the Norte Chico as she walks towards the State school in a white pinafore, her hair tied up in braids

The historical events stain with blood the bosoms of corpulent women, providers for huge families who grow up hanging onto their skirts with small hands like those painted by Pedro Lobos and dark eyes looking up in wonder

Señora Marta is the center of power and social life in Coipué, the Maule River region, together with her children of pure Spanish lineage preserved in this botanical garden of boldo and hawthorn, with a working husband you don’t even notice

She brings together singers and overseers in her adobe house of inscrutable depths, distant ceilings and tiny windows

Nilda Silva, may she rest in peace, works as a water carrier at age seven. Registers herself in the school run by the priests, sees the ocean for the first time in Tal Tal, throws herself face down on the floor trembling with wonder

Raises fifteen children and others she takes in. Cares for a fallen angel of a husband who dreams and mumbles about lost treasures, who develops a form of sculpture like a scrap-iron filigree

Protects her daughters against prostitution with the Bible and the rod. Dies blessing her enemies.  The hills of Coquimbo dressed in mourning

Nana Arcaya leaves the mansion, stops attending high society dances, and hangs up her ballet slippers at age twenty after the dictator Ibáñez banishes her father, the colonel, to the Juan Fernandez Islands

She works for decades and raises two children who cannot obliterate the nostalgia

But before that, the machis, possessed, twist convulsively, as through magic they keep themselves suspended on the top of the cinnamon tree, uniting that race of broad face and strong torso and high-pitched bird-like voice, with the sky, the Earth, the sun and the mountains

Crossing the Cordillera are the Collela Ché, multicoloured birds that keep their queen, a girl of seven, afloat in the air

 

Then the lethargic conquistadors, forced out of opulent Peru by internal strife among leaders, bearded, in rags, harquebuses rusty, are scattering towards the South in the grip of a weary greediness

Their inner eyes caressing the legends of the City of the Césares and the bodies of the Indian maidens as they spill out towards the Central Valley and the far South

As their concubines cook for them in improvised ovens and dry out the powder wet from the last rain and they gamble away at dice the four corners of the world

They have been spreading their seed wherever they set up camp, leaving behind children with sensitive, perplexed eyes

The skies of the South shake in turbulence as they advance through bogs and forests, those four-legged machines whose upper part is made of metal and spits fire

For some Emissaries of God the region is the lower vertex of a triangle, one point sunk in the chest of the divinity, the other in the Crown of Spain

Later they will make an inventory of the voices of the despised language while discussing theology in an atmosphere that smells of horse dung

Four hundred thousand conquistadors lie buried, fertilizing the region called La Frontera

In the final years of the nineteen century General Bulnes launches a campaign to root out the Araucanians. The border is crossed. Those older than eight are put to the knife

Since long before, Caupolicán carried an enormous log on his back for two days and two nights. Now the children of the Araucanians load sacks of flour in the bakeries

Lautaro did intelligence work, learned military techniques, incorporated the Spanish horse into battle

After having his hands amputated, Galvarino fought with the stumps

Like a field sown with brown grain razed by a fire that cannot burn its roots, these people sit waiting on the steps of the Government Building

Five hundred years isn’t that long for people who measure time in seasons and natural catastrophes

The Indians wander among their dwellings on the humid fertile ground of Arauco, taking care of flocks of hens that lay blue or greenish eggs, eating flour with water, raising children with high-pitched voices who talk with birds and one fine day migrate to the cities to look for work

Small, well-formed hands and feet, strong torsos, eyes big and brown, prominent chests and singsong voices, an aptitude for silver work and the indisputable role of women in religious and social life

A poor metabolism of wine

They sink their feet firmly in the humid grass of the South. The official accounts downplay the size of the indigenous population. They prepare themselves to wait  another couple of centuries at best


Translated from the Spanish for Jorge Etcheverry, edited by Sharon Khan.

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